EmIf you’re wondering what to do in the 4000 Islands, picture this: cycling through lush rice fields, kayaking along the Mekong at sunset, and unwinding in a hammock as the river drifts by. Welcome to Don Det and Don Khon, two of Laos’ 4000 Islands—a peaceful escape far removed from the tourist crowds of Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng. While these islands may not have the bustling nightlife or easy transport connections of northern hotspots, they offer something even more special: a chance to slow down, soak in breathtaking scenery, and experience Laos at its most laid-back. But are they worth adding to your itinerary? Let’s explore what makes the 4000 Islands a hidden gem—or not—on your Laos adventure.
Key Takeaways
- The main thing to do in the 4000 Islands is relax. Laze in a hammock, sip on a Beer Lao and just let the world float by on the Mekong
- The islands are also a cycling haven and it’s easy to cycle to the different waterfalls dotted around the islands
- The islands are very off the beaten track, and this is reflected in practicalities such as availabilty of ATMs, the boat journey out to the islands and the type of accommodation available
Are the 4000 Islands worth visiting?
Don Det, one of the 4000 Islands, is a relaxed paradise on the Mekong River. If you’re planning your Laos itinerary, you’re probably thinking of Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng – and you absolutely should, these are great destinations. But nestled in the south, on the border with Cambodia, are Don Det and Don Khon, two of the 4000 Islands in Laos. These islands aren’t served by the new Laos-China trains, and so they’re much less visited than the more touristy spots along the railway. Make time in your Laos itinerary for a peaceful few days on these beautiful islands.
In this travel guide, you’ll find what to do in the 4000 islands, ncluding Don Det and Don Khon, where you can take in the sunset and visit gorgeous waterfalls. You’ll also find out how to get there, where to stay and other practicalities to make your visit easier.
The history of the 4000 Islands
The 4000 Islands, also known as Si Phan Don, played an important role in the industrial and trade development of Laos due to their strategic position on the Mekong River. The first records of people living on the islands date back to the Angkor period of the 9th century.
The Mekong is one of the biggest rivers in Asia, flowing through China, Myanmar, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand as well as Laos. It has been an important trade route for centuries. However, this stepped up when Laos became a part of the French Protectorate in the late 19th century.
The French recognised the strategic importane of the 4000 Islands for their Indochina plans. They built a railway on the island, connected to the mainland by a bridge. The railway was abandoned in the 1940s following the Second World War and end of French colonisation.
Today, the islands are mainly dependent on agriculture, although tourism also plays a big part in the economy.
What to do in the 4000 islands
1. Take in one of the most beautiful sunsets in South East Asia
Don Det has one of the most beautiful sunsets in South East Asia. Sunset is when the river comes alive, as the kids come out to play and the adults do their chores. Find a bar on the sunset side of the island, settle in and watch the sky slowly change over the Mekong.
If you’re a more adventurous traveller, you can also go kayaking at sunset, or you can take a private boat ride for around 250,000 KIP (c.$12). The boat rides are offered either by your guest house or one of the small travel agencies on the island. I wasn’t able to find a shared option.
2. Take a relaxed bike ride around the islands
Don Det and Don Khon have to be some of the easiest and most beautiful places to cycle in South East Asia. As you ride, you’ll pass beautiful rice fields, small local temples and the locals travelling up and down the river.
The islands are completely flat, so even the most unfit will find it easy going. Much of the island is newly paved, offering a very smooth cycling experience, while the more adventurous can bump along the dirt road on the sunset side of Don Det. There are also no cars and very few motorbikes on the islands, so it’s super safe to cycle along at your own pace, taking in the beauty around you.
3. Best waterfalls to visit in the 4000 Islands
Don Khon island is home to two beautiful and easily accessible waterfalls, which are a must-visit on any trip to the 4000 islands.
Li Phi Somphamit waterfalls
This is the more touristy of the two waterfalls, and it’s about a 10 minute cycle from the historic bridge between the islands. These beautiful waterfalls are well set up for tourists, with a 30,000 KIP ($1.40) entry fee and a small park to walk through to see the waterfalls at different stages.
If you’re an adrenaline junkie, you can zipline around the falls for about $30, or walk across a number of suspension bridges for an extra 200,000 kip (c.$9).
Khone Pay Soy Waterfall
Once you’ve visited the touristy Li Phi falls, it’s time for something completely different. Head to the other side of Don Khon to the Khone Pay Soy Waterfalls.
Turn down a dirt road off the main road to find these beautiful and relatively unknown waterfalls. They are now well signposted, but the Google Maps location is incorrect (in late 2024), so use the signposts.
You get the joy of walking across the brand new metal bridge across the river to take photos of the beautiful falls. While on the metal bridge, you can marvel at the ancient wooden bridge that was all there was until recently – all the Google reviews mention how dangerous this was! The new metal bridge is so new they were concreting it when I visited in November 2024 – I definitely counted myself lucky not to use the wooden version!
4.Cross the historic bridge and visit the old French railway
As you cycle around Don Det and Don Khon, you’ll inevitably cross the historic bridge across the Mekong, built by the French in the early 20th century. This gives you a great opportunity to stop and take a picture of the middle of the mighty Mekong.
On the Don Khon side, head to the old French railway carriage, a few minutes’ cycle from the bridge. This rusted railway dates from 1893, when the French saw Don Khon as an important strategic point on the Mekong. There have been no trains on the railway since the 1940s, and this carriage is all that’s left of this part of Laos’ colonial history.
5. Make time to relax
While cycling around the 4000 Islands is a joy, one of the main reasons people go to Don Det and Don Khon is to relax. Make time in your schedule to just while away the hours on these beautiful islands, enjoying the peace and quiet and slower pace of life. Laze in the hammocks in your guest house, or head to one of the beaches on the banks of the river to spend a quiet afternoon.
One of the best places to relax is the Dondet Coffee House, one of the few places on the islands with a real coffee machine. This beautiful cafe is on the sunrise side of the island, so it’s a great place for your morning view. The comfortable seats are also a great place to spend the afternoon in relative cool, while the sunset side of the island bakes in the sun.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where are the 4000 Islands
The 4000 Islands are in the very south of Laos, on the border with Cambodia. The town on the mainland is Nakasong, about 17km from the border with Cambodia. From Nakasong you take a short ride in a very small boat to either Don Det or Don Khon.
The nearest major town to the 4000 Islands is Pakse in south Laos. This has an airport and a small downtown hub. It is the starting point for trips to the Bolaven Loop, but doesn’t have much else going on.
How to get to Don Det and the 4000 Islands from Laos and Cambodia
Don Det and Don Khon are accessible from Paske in Laos, and Siem Reap in Cambodia. You travel to Nakasong on the mainland, before taking a boat across to your chosen island.
From Paske to Don Det and Don Khon
This is a pretty easy journey, with regular minivans plying the two hour route to Nakasong, the nearest town on the mainland. The minivans are modern and air conditioned, and very comfortable. You’ll then need to get the boat across to Don Det or Don Khon, which should be included in your ticket. The less said about the boat the better – just consider it part of the adventure.
To get to Pakse from north Laos, you can fly from Vientiane or Luang Prabang. I used Lao Airlines, who have a reasonable safety rating.
You can also take a long distance bus from Vientiane, but beware that roads in Laos tend to be very bad!
From Siem Reap to Don Det
The 4000 islands are on the border with Cambodia, and many people will make the journey across the border from Siem Reap into Laos (or vice versa). There are two companies offering this journey:
- Asia Van Transfer – this company has been running minivans on this journey for years. The journey is long and pretty uncomfortable, but it’s well organised and they know what they’re doing.
- VET Airbus – this well regarded Cambodian bus company started running this route in October 2024, just before my trip. I used the Airbus for a different journey – it’s like travelling business class. If I could do the journey to Laos again, I’d use the Airbus. However, I can’t say how well they’d cope with the border crossing as I didn’t use them for the trip.
Where to stay in the 4000 Islands Laos
Sunset Side
In my opinion, the best place to stay is the sunset side of the island. There are many guest houses along the coast, and most will offer hammocks outside your room to enjoy that sunset vibe. Stay a few minutes away from the main port to avoid noise from the few bars on the island.
Sunrise Side
If you want a truly quiet experience, try the guesthouses on the sunrise side of the island. Many of these are more isolated, with few other buildings in sight.
Don Khon
Don Khon has beautiful waterfalls and historic sites. If you want to stay on Don Khon, the area around the bridge is the most popular, with restaurants and cafes. If you choose to stay further out on Don Khon, it can be difficult (and expensive) to find a tuk-tuk to take you there.
Where to eat on the Laos 4000 islands
There are plenty of options to eat on Don Det and Don Khon. None are Michelin quality, but you’ll find a good variety of Asian and Western food and you definitely won’t go hungry!
Highlights include:
- Namkhong View Bungalows – simple Asian food done well, peak sunset views and the most comfortable cushions on the island.
- Tena Restaurant – if you’re looking for good pasta, this was the best on the island.
- One More Bar and Restaurant – offers a unique set of Western dishes, including poutine and homemade Baileys
- Emily’s Noodles – this Don Khon restaurant does what it says on the tin. A range of simple noodle dishes, done really well.
Practicalities – ATM and Card payments
There are no ATMs on the 4000 Islands, so make sure to get money out in Nakasong before you come across. Nowhere accepts card payment, so try to bring enough for your entire stay.
If you get caught short for cash, there are two places near Don Det port that offer a withdrawal service for a very steep fee. Avoid these if possible, but they’re available for an emergency. You could also get the boat back across to Nakasong, but unless you’re lucky to travel in a busy boat, the fee is probably not much less than the fee for the withdrawal service.
So, are the 4000 Islands worth visiting? If you’re looking for luxury, nightlife, or easy transport connections, they might not be for you. But if you crave a peaceful escape, stunning sunsets, scenic bike rides, and a taste of authentic Laos, Don Det and Don Khon deliver in spades. Whether you spend your days exploring waterfalls, paddling along the Mekong, or simply swinging in a hammock with a fresh coconut in hand, the islands invite you to slow down and embrace the moment. If that sounds like your kind of adventure, then yes—these islands are absolutely worth the trip.
