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Is Ninh Binh worth visiting, or should you spend those extra days in Hoi An or Hanoi instead? With so much to see in Vietnam, it’s easy to overlook this peaceful spot just a couple of hours south of Hanoi. Many travellers squeeze it into a rushed day trip from Hanoi. But after spending four months exploring Vietnam, including four days in Ninh Binh in October 2024, I can confidently say: this place deserves more of your time.
All photos featured on this blog are from my personal travel experiences.
Think towering limestone karsts, slow-moving rivers that wind past golden rice paddies, and boat trips that glide through caves so low you’ll instinctively duck. Yes, getting in and out of those boats felt like one of the most dangerous things I did in Vietnam – I had a moment of pure panic when I nearly toppled into the water trying to exit gracefully – but it was still one of the most memorable parts of my Vietnam travels.
Beyond the popular Trang An and Tam Coc boat rides, Ninh Binh offers peaceful pagodas, ancient capital ruins, sweeping viewpoints, and even a serene hidden gem that few tourists find: An Tiem Lake. It’s the kind of place that rewards a slower pace, where early mornings are misty and quiet, and sunsets turn the karsts into silhouettes.
In this guide, I’ll show you why Ninh Binh is more than just a scenic stopover, and share exactly what to do if you decide to stay longer than a day. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Quick Summary for Ninh Binh
🏡 Best base: Tam Coc for convenience, Trang An for peace
🕓 Recommended stay: 2–3 nights
🚣 Must-do: Trang An boat ride
🧘♀️ Hidden gem: An Tiem Lake
Is Ninh Binh worth visiting
The area around industrial Ninh Binh city is among Vietnam’s most stunning destinations—a bold claim, but well-deserved. The area, known as the Trang An Landscape Complex, is recognised as a site of natural beauty by UNESCO. Ninh Binh is known as ‘Halong Bay on land’ and is a must-do on any north Vietnam itinerary.
There’s plenty to do in Ninh Binh to make it worth the diversion from Hanoi. From the must-do boat ride through the limestone karsts to one of Vietnam’s many historic complexes, there’s something for everyone. And the relatively unknown An Tiem Lake, rarely visited by Western tourists, is the cherry on top!
When I visited Vietnam in 2010, Ninh Binh wasn’t on the tourist itinerary. I was told tourists only started visiting after the area was recognised by UNESCO. However, you can now see development happening everywhere. While it still has a really chill, backpacker vibe, in a couple of years Ninh Binh is going to be very different. Visit now before it becomes overdeveloped!
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What to do – the ultimate Ninh Binh travel guide
Take a beautiful boat ride through limestone karsts
Cost: 250k VND
Without a doubt, taking a boat ride through Ninh Binh’s famous limestone karsts is the must-do experience in this part of Vietnam. A boat ride takes you into the limestone hills that the area is famous for, floating gently past stunning rock formations and through epic caves.
There are two boat options, and I highly recommend going to Trang An over Tam Coc.
| To consider | Trang An | Tam Coc |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Further away from the main hotel area | Right in the centre of the action and easy to access from main hotel area |
| How to get there | Take a Grab rideshare or traditional taxi from Tam Coc | Walk from hotels in Tam Coc |
| Duration | Routes from 2 hours upwards | Shorter route, from 1.5 – 2 hours |
| Highlights | Dot Cave, 1km in length, and King Kong filming locations | Landscape considered more natural and untouched |
| Reviews and scams | Tipping prohibited and no scams noted via Google Reviews or travel blogs. | Both Google Reviews and travel blogs note that scams are common (e.g. expectation to buy refreshments from other boats) and tipping is expected. |
At Trang An, there is more choice over what you see and the experience is much more professional. However, it’s further away from most hotels, and if you’re short on time, the Tam Coc boats might be best for you.
Find out all the details to help make your choice in my full guide to the boats in Ninh Binh!
Explore history at Hoa Lu Ancient capital
Cost: 20k VND
Important information: As Hoa Lu is a religious site, you need to dress appropriately. The focus was on covering knees rather than shoulders. If you are wearing shorts, they provide a sarong at the entrance.
Past the Trang An boats, you’ll come to the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. This was the capital of the Dai Co Viet Kingdom during the 10th and 11th centuries. Although it served as the capital for only a short period before Hanoi took its place, Hoa Lu remains a key part of Vietnam’s archaeological heritage. Like other ancient sites in Asia, such as Angor Wat and Borobudur near Yogyakarta, it’s also part of the UNESCO Heritage Site.
There is so much history at Hoa Lu. Vietnam is rich with archeological history in general – for example, the beautiful ruins at My Son, near Hoi An. The temples and buildings at Hoa Lu are really beautiful – and of course, they’re surrounded by stunning landscapes.
However, my visit to Hoa Lu was not as successful as I’d hoped. I thought it would be possible to find a guide at the complex, but I couldn’t find one. As with many archeological sites, without a guide it’s difficult to really appreciate the site. I’d recommend booking a guide in advance – talk to your hotel or a tour provider in Tam Coc.
You could also try this highly rated tour on Get Your Guide, which also takes you on the Trang An Boat ride, to Bai Dinh Pagoda and for the climb at Hang Lua. I didn’t do this as I didn’t want to do the climb – but in retrospect it might have been the best option.
Walk or cycle around the unknown An Tiem lake
Cost: 50k VND
Important information: If you want to rent a bike to cycle around the lake, do so at the entrance as you won’t be able to around the lake.
How to get there: I took a quick moto taxi from the ancient capital. Although you could easily walk from Hoa Lu in terms of distance, be aware that it’s not well-marked on maps and it’s easy to get lost (as I did when leaving). If you’re visiting from Tam Coc, you’ll need to take a Grab or hire a taxi.
Near Hoa Lu ancient capital is this stunning, quiet lake that’s relatively unknown by western tourists. It was recommended by my host, but I haven’t seen it on other travel guides and when trying to find out if it was worth visiting, I could hardly find any information!
Head through the tunnel lit by lanterns and you’ll find Am Tiem Lake, which until recently was only accessible by very difficult mountain passes. It’s now a bit of a haven for local and Asian tourists, who rent bikes to cycle around the paved edge of the lake. As with many places geared towards Asian tourists, there are also numerous Instagram photo spots around the lake.
At one end of the lake you’ll find a cafe, and above a small and extremely picturesque pagoda nestled into the side of the mountain that looks like something out of a fairy tale.
At the other end of the lake is the real draw – climb the stairs to find the Dragon Cave pagoda. Like the Hindu temples at Batu and Ipoh in Malaysia, Pak Ou near Luang Prabang, and even the Sari Salltik shrine I recently visited in Albania, this is a temple built into a cave in the mountain, although the Dragon Cave is Buddhist. While the exact history of the Dragon Cave is unclear, it has been a religious site since at least the 10th century.
Once you’ve made the climb, you’ll also find spectacular views of the lake!
Chill out Sister Fields Cafe
While much of Ninh Binh still feels like a traditional backpacker town, with bars focused on cheap beer and generic food, hidden down a small alley is the beautiful Sister Fields cafe.
This peaceful cafe, started and run by young women, is a peaceful oasis within Ninh Binh. It feels more like the kind of cafe you’d find in Hanoi or Hoi An, or even a cafe culture hotspot like Da Nang or Chiang Mai in Thailand. Spend time here enjoying the brunch-style food or chilling out in the beautiful gardens.
Rest, relax and soak up the nature
This is a beautiful part of Vietnam to take a little time to rest and relax. You’re surrounded by beauty, and even the busier Tam Coc is fundamentally a relaxed town. Take some time to sit at a bar on the main street, or to chill out in the pool at your accommodation. Beer is incredibly cheap in Tam Coc, and many places also sell delicious Vietnamese coffee. There are also the usual multitude of spas offering massages and a range of treatments – particularly great if you get a rainy day.
Honourable mentions
It’s impossible to do everything while you’re travelling. Here are a few of the things that are highly recommended in Ninh Binh, but that I de-prioritised because they weren’t right for me.
Climb Hang Lua for a dramatic view of the UNSECO-listed landscape
Cost: 100k VND
Important information: There are also stories of scams on the road down to the entrance, particularly around where to park your motorbike or bike. Be careful of these and read up in advance if you want to avoid them – there are many mentions in the Google Reviews for Hang Mua.
Climbing to the top of Hang Lua at sunset is a staple of tour itineraries in Ninh Binh. This viewpoint is famous for stunning views of Tam Coc and the surrounding World Heritage landscape. However, I was too lazy to attempt the 500 steps to the top and opted to enjoy other sights instead.
If you’re more up for the 500 stairs than I was, then a trip to Hang Lua should be on your Ninh Binh itinerary. While the view at sunset is supposedly stunning, this is when the incredibly popular day tours from Hanoi turn up. Consider going at a different time when the viewpoint will be quieter. An early morning hike would also help you avoid the heat.
This highly rated trip will help you to avoid the possible scams, as well as taking you to Trang An, Hoa Lu and Bai Dinh Pagoda.
Cycle around the beautiful countryside
Like the area around Ben Tre in the Mekong Delta or the rice fields around Hoi An, cycling around Ninh Binh is incredibly popular. I saw lots of happy cyclists wheeling around the area. This would also give you the opportunity to explore some of the less-visited pagodas dotted around the countryside.
Most hotels and hostels will offer bike rental, with some offering free bikes. Just be careful cycling down the main road in Tam Coc as it’s busy with buses throughout the day.
Where should you stay in Ninh Binh?
There are two main areas that tourists stay when visiting Ninh Binh: the towns of Tam Coc and Trang An. Avoid staying in Ninh Binh city – this is just the jumping off point for the region and is an industrial town not geared towards tourists.
Tam Coc
Tam Coc is a bigger, more developed town compared to Trang An, although for now it’s still very much a backpacker town. There is one main street lined with restaurants and spas, with hotels on alleys shooting off this. The road leads down to a cluster of restaurants around the lake.
I really enjoyed Tam Coc. It’s a small, easily walkable town with lots of food options. I could almost see it changing in front of me though – development in Vietnam is happening so quickly – so I can imagine that in a year or two it will be very different.
I would avoid staying directly on the main street in Tam Coc, as it’s noisy not just from bars but from buses passing through. Look for a hotel slightly away from the main action. There are also some lovely hotels a bit further out of town, but be aware that there is no Grab motorbike in Ninh Binh. If you stay further out, you’ll need to either rent a motorbike, cycle into the main town or take a relatively expensive Grab car.
Hotel options:
- Tam Coc Mandala hotel – about 5 minutes walk from the main road, this small budget hotel is clean, well designed and has a lovely pool. This is where I stayed and I can highly recommend it. The owner is friendly and helpful, and it offers a great breakfast, all in a quiet location.
- Banana Tree Hostel – this thriving hostel is one of the few properties directly on the lake at Tam Coc. While I’m not a hostel person, if you are it’s worth considering this hostel for the pool with lake views and social vibes.
- Tam Coc Mountain Sunset and Garden Hotel – for a slightly more luxurious stay, try this highly rated hotel. It’s situated off the busy main road but not far from the centre of town, and has an indoor pool.
Trang An
Trang An is much smaller and more spread out, and less easy to navigate on foot. The main area with hotels/homestays is not by the boat lake. If you’re planning to stay in Trang An, you’ll need to rent motorbikes or bikes to get around. You could also take Grab, but this is likely to be less frequent/easy to get than in Tam Coc as the area is more spread out. The hotels below are highly rated and a bit more in the main village of Trang An:
- Trang An Mountain House – slightly more expensive, this also has excellent reviews with a pool and restaurant. This one is a bit more central in Trang An village
- Green Mountain Homestay – strong reviews across both Google and Booking.com, with a pool and restaurant
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Ninh Binh
The best times to visit Ninh Binh are spring and autumn. I visited in October 2024, and the heat during the day was still pretty intense.
✔ Spring – March to May: cooler, but humid with high rainfall.
✔ Summer – June to August: hot and humid, lots of rain.
✔ Autumn – September – November: Cooler, decreasing humidity and green fields.
✔ Winter – December – February: Cool, even cold, but dry.
Can you visit Ninh Binh without a tour?
Yes, Ninh Binh is easy to explore independently, especially if you’re based in Tam Coc or Trang An. Boat rides, pagodas, and cafes are accessible by bike, foot, or Grab car. Some sites, like Hoa Lu, are better with a guide—but you can book these locally. It’s also easy to get there independently from across Vietnam, thanks to the network of buses and trains that cross the country.
How many days should you spend in Ninh Binh
Many people visit Ninh Binh on a day trip from Hanoi, and it’s possible to see the main sights in Ninh Binh on a very busy one day itinerary.
However, if your Vietnam itinerary allows, I would highly recommend spending longer in this beautiful area. Like the area around Sapa, Ninh Binh is a real antidote to the hustle and chaos of the rest of Vietnam, and a few days spent here will help recharge your batteries and reconnect you with nature.
Spending at least 2 nights in Ninh Binh gives you one full day and at least one half day in the area. Spend your full day visiting Trang An, Am Tiem Lake and Hoa Lu, and use at least a half day in the area to cycle around. You could visit Hang Mua on either your full day or your half day, depending on your arrival/departure times.
Should I rent a bike or a motorbike in Ninh Binh?
If you’re confident on two wheels and want to see more remote areas, a motorbike offers flexibility. However, a bicycle is perfect for exploring Tam Coc and nearby sights like An Tiem Lake. Lots of people ride bicycles in this area, meaning that cars and motorbikes are more aware of them on the roads. However, be cautious on main roads—they can be busy and narrow, particularly in the centre of Tam Coc town.
How to get to Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is accessible by train or bus. The city of Ninh Binh is the gateway to the surrounding area of natural beauty, with the two towns of Tam Coc and Trang Ang the most popular areas to stay. Trains arrive into Ninh Binh, while buses go directly to Tam Coc.
Ninh Binh city is about 10 minutes by bike or car from Tam Coc, and about 20 minutes from Trang An.
The nearest airport is Hanoi, around 3 hours away by road or 2 hours by train. While Ninh Binh is in the north of Vietnam, most easily visited from Hanoi, it’s also easy to access from your central Vietnam itinerary.
Train to Ninh Binh from Da Nang, Hue and Hanoi
The city of Ninh Binh is on the trainline from Da Nang to Hanoi. The sleeper train from Da Nang is overnight and takes between 15-16 hours, with times available here. This is the best way to travel from Hoi An, which has no train station but is about 40 minutes drive from Da Nang. Hue is the next stop from Da Nang, on the same route, so journeys would be about 12 hours from Hue to Ninh Binh.
From Hanoi, the train takes just over 2 hours. There are 3 trains per day – one early in the morning, one in the afternoon and one in the evening.
Find out everything you need to know in my full guide to Vietnam’s trains.
When you arrive at the train station, you will be greeted by lots of taxi drivers. You can use their services, organise a taxi from your hotel, or use Grab. A Grab from the station to Tam Coc costs about £3/$3.70/3.5e.
Bus to Ninh Binh
There are bus routes to Ninh Binh from a variety of destinations across Vietnam, and the buses will drop you directly into Tam Coc town.
The most popular routes are from Hanoi (about 3 hours) and Halong Bay (about 4 hours). The quality of these can differ, including standard mini vans and limousine vans, so shop around to find the right balance of price versus quality for you. I used Sapa Discovery Travel for the 3 hour trip to Hanoi and the limousine van was clean, modern and comfortable.
You can also get buses from Da Nang (c.14h), Sapa (c.8h) and Hue (c.11h). There are many agencies offering sleeper buses and vans. Read the reviews before choosing the bus for you, as quality can differ significantly. If you are heading to Sapa, I used HK Open Tour/HK Buslines and can recommend their modern, clean sleeper buses.
Even after four months exploring Vietnam, I think about my time in Ninh Binh. The dramatic karsts, hidden temples, and tranquil waterways create a landscape unlike anywhere else in Vietnam. Whether you choose to explore by boat, bike, or foot, every corner of Ninh Binh offers something magical. And beyond its natural beauty, the region provides a much-needed respite from the chaos of Vietnam’s big cities. If you’re looking for an adventure that blends history, nature, and relaxation, Ninh Binh should be at the top of your list. But go soon—before the secret gets out!
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Em is the writer behind Em’s Globetrotting Gems, a blog where she shares real experiences and practical travel advice from her journeys around the globe. She visited Ninh Binh in autumn 2024 and explored its stunning landscapes over several days, inspiring her to create this guide to help others choose the right experiences. Her blog is all about making travel easier, more meaningful, and filled with memorable moments.
✅ All photos featured on this blog are from my personal travel experiences. No stock images are used.
Ninh Binh is probably my favorite place to visit in Vietnam and this Ninh binh travel guide would have been super useful before my trip! I am aslso super lazy but I highly recommend you try to climb Mua cave (Hang Mua) next time you visit. It is absolutely worth it!
I missed this off my itinerary as I ran out of time; however, I am planning a trip back to Vietnam and will definitely visit Ninh Binh. It looks so beautiful and thanks for the table of what each boat ride consists of – very helpful.
You definitely should make it part of your next visit! It’s such a beautiful and peaceful area!
[…] tour as it was a super easy day trip from Hanoi and we got to experience so much. There are so many amazing things to do in Ninh Binh, so if you have the time to stay longer, you absolutely should! Either way, there are some things […]