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When travellers dream of Indonesia, Bali’s beaches and rice terraces or Java’s ancient temples and bustling cities usually steal the spotlight. But hidden to the west lies Sumatra—Indonesia’s wild, rugged, and vastly underrated giant. With dense rainforests, volcanic lakes, rare wildlife, and rich indigenous culture, Sumatra offers a side of Indonesia that many never get to see.

Orangutans are easy to find in Bukit Lawang

If you’re looking to escape the crowds and dive into an authentic, off-the-beaten-track adventure, this island might just surprise you. In this guide to the best islands in Indonesia, we’ll compare Sumatra with its better-known neighbours—Bali and Java—and explore why Sumatra deserves a top spot on your travel radar.

Convinced? Check out my full guide to Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba or check top stays to get your planning going!

🌏 Sumatra vs Bali vs Java: Quick Overview of Indonesia’s Iconic Islands

🐅 Sumatra: Indonesia’s Wild, Authentic Paradise

Sumatra is the largest island in Indonesia, and the sixth largest island in the world (Borneo comes in at number 3), making it roughly the size of Sweden or California. It has a population of 59 million, and around 4.7 million people live in and around Medan, the biggest city.

A traditional Batak house in Lake Toba

Despite this huge-sounding population, Sumatra is so big that it feels very lightly populated. For much of my visit in 2024, I drove through small, remote villages, interspersed with the occasional bigger town. The island is covered in lush jungle, rather than people, and populated by a huge array of wildlife. The exception to the jungle coverage is the beautiful Lake Toba, the highest crater lake in the world, where you can enjoy almost alpine beauty. Sumatra is also famous for indigenous culture, with a huge range of ethnic groups living on the island. Despite all this, Sumatra is one of the most underrated islands in Indonesia.

  • Wake up to river views and a private waterfall at Jungle Inn, where the food is excellent and the staff treat you like family.
  • Enjoy glassy lake views and hearty breakfasts at Hub Tata, the perfect peaceful base for exploring Batak culture.

🏝 Bali: Beaches, Temples, and Tourist Hotspots

No article about Indonesia would be complete without mentioning Bali, the country’s most famous destination. Far smaller than Sumatra, Bali is much more densely populated, with around 4.8 million people living on the island (and who knows how many tourists at any given time!).

Em wearing sunglasses and a green sarong poses confidently on the stone steps of an ornate Balinese temple gate. The temple features intricate carvings and a weathered wooden door, framed by red brick and stone structures with guardian statues. The bright blue sky contrasts beautifully with the historic architecture, emphasizing the temple’s grandeur.
Bali’s temples are different to anywhere else in Indonesia

Bali is rightly famous for its incredible beaches and unique architecture. The fact that Balinese Hinduism is the main religion on the islands gives the many temples a different style to anywhere else in Indonesia. You can head to the south for a luxurious beach club vibe, or to the north for culture and the Eat Pray Love atmosphere of yoga and spiritual healing.

  • Relax in the cultural heart of Bali at your Ubud hotel, surrounded by temples, rice terraces, and local markets.
  • See Bali’s highlights in one day with this guided Ubud tour — from the Monkey Forest to the famous rice terraces.
  • Skip the hassle and book your Bali transfers with 12Go Asia for easy, reliable travel across the island.

🕌 Java: Culture, Cities, and Volcano Adventures

Java is Indonesia’s most populous island. Over 150 million people live on Java, an island roughly the size of the UK – with over 33 million people living in Jakarta alone. The island is famous for hosting the capital of Indonesia (although not for much longer, as it’s moving to the Indonesian part of Borneo), as well as two incredible UNESCO Heritage sites, Borobudur and Prambanan, near the beautiful Yogyakarta city. Find out everything you need to know about visiting Borobudur in my full guide.

Borobudur Temple is truly special

It’s also famous for volcanoes, and the easiest to visit is Mount Bromo, where you can climb right to the crater.

  • Cool off in the pool after sightseeing at Otu Hostel, a budget-friendly stay right near Yogyakarta’s main sights.
  • Stay at Enny’s Guesthouse for warm hosts, a quiet location, and easy trips to Mount Bromo or the Rainbow Village.
  • Watch the sunrise over an active volcano on a Mount Bromo tour you’ll never forget.
  • Step back in time at Borobudur and Prambanan, Java’s breathtaking UNESCO temples.
  • Travel between Java’s cities in comfort with 12Go Asia, from scenic train rides to quick bus connections.

🌿 Which Island Has the Best Nature? Comparing Sumatra, Bali and Java

Sumatra

Sumatra is deeply covered in jungle, and there are a range of treks you can take in different places across the island. The most popular are in Bukit Lawang, where most people do an overnight trek to see the orangutans. However, if you’re more adventurous, you can plan a much longer trek, taking you into pristine jungle that rarely sees humans.

Lake Toba is stunning

The area around Lake Toba is also exceptional. This mountainous region holds the largest crater lake in the world, and the views on Lake Toba are sublime. If you’re able to drive a motorbike, one of the best things to do is rent one and explore the less touristy areas of the island.

Bali

Bali is rightly famous for it’s beautiful rice terraces, which are recognised as a UNESCO Heritage Site. These terraces created a system of irrigation that changed agriculture on the island, and is still used today. However, these rice terraces have become deeply touristy, and it’s hard to find ones that aren’t packed with people posing against the lush background. The same is true of many of Bali’s beautiful waterfalls, which are truly spectacular but very managed.

Em in a dark tank top and light shorts stands at a railing, gazing out at the lush, terraced rice fields of Bali. The landscape is filled with vibrant greenery, tall palm trees, and rolling hills under a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds. The scene captures the peaceful beauty of rural Indonesia.
Bali’s rice terraces are beautiful

Java

Java also has stunning nature and landscapes. Mount Bromo is a highlight, as it’s incredibly rare to be able to climb and peer into an active volcano. Once you get out of the cities, you can also find stunning waterfalls and tea plantations – but these can be expensive to visit unless you’re able to hire a motorbike.

A breathtaking view of a mountain range at sunrise, with a clear blue sky and wispy clouds above. Layers of mist settle over the distant peaks, creating a serene and dreamy effect. Tall trees in the foreground frame the scene, adding depth to the landscape.
Visiting Mount Bromo is a very special experience

✅ Sumatra is the most underrated island in Indonesia for nature, as it offers the kind of wildness you just can’t find in the more populous Bali and Java. In addition, Lake Toba is truly something special, with pristine blue water reaching out towards the green mountains that surround it.

🦧 Wildlife in Indonesia: Where to See Orangutans and More

Sumatra

Sumatra is famous, among other things, for being one of only two places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild. These human-like monkeys live in the jungle and are now a protected species. The easiest place to see them is around the small tourist town of Bukit Lawang. The presence of semi-wild orangutans, who were once kept as pets and have since been rehabilitated, though they remain unafraid of humans, makes sightings incredibly easy and frequent. I saw six on a short three-hour trek! You can also easily see the peaceful Thomas Leaf monkeys, which are also only found in Sumatra, and reminded me of the very relaxed Dusky Leaf monkeys I saw in Penang in Malaysia.

I spotted this baby orangutan on my trek

If you do a multi day trek into the jungle, there’s also a chance of seeing the very rare Sumatran tiger or rhino!

Bali and Java

While there is certainly plenty of wildlife in Bali and Java, the bigger animals are mostly found in zoos, and there’s nothing like the orangutan experiences you’ll find on Sumatra. In Bali, you do have the opportunity to see some wildlife – there are plenty of naughty macaques waiting in the Sacred Monkey Forest to steal your stuff, and there are geckos absolutely everywhere! In Java, I saw very little wildlife – just the sad horses being used to transport tourists to and from Mount Bromo.

✅ Highlight: Bukit Lawang and Gunung Leuser National Park in Sumatra, where you can find ethical trekking in natural habitats. Be sure to research your tour company first to ensure that they are ethical in the way they treat the orangutans – I used Sumatra Orangutan Explore and highly recommend them.

🛕 Culture in Indonesia: Balinese Temples vs Batak Villages

Sumatra

In Sumatra, you’ll find a huge range of ethnic groups. The group you are most likely to come into contact with are the Batak people, who are the most populous group, and live in ornate traditional houses around Lake Toba, with a sub-group known as the Karo Batak living around Bukit Lawang. The Batak people are predominantly Christian, although any visit to a Batak site will show that this is closely interwoven with more traditional beliefs.

Traditional Batak houses in Lake Toba

Around Lake Toba in particular there is the opportunity to visit sites of historical importance to the Batak people, including:

  • Tomok market – a great place to buy souvenirs made by local people
  • The Stone Chairs of Siallagan – near Tomok village, this open air museum has preserved several traditional Batik houses, some of which are still used as family dwellings. It also contains the Stone Chairs of Siallagan, where the Batak King used to hold meetings.
  • Huta Bolon in Simanindo – another museum also offering traditional houses.
Em wearing a green sarong and sunglasses poses in front of the Taman Ayun Temple in Bali, Indonesia. The temple features towering multi-tiered pagodas, intricate stone carvings, and a peaceful courtyard. The warm sunlight highlights the ancient architecture, creating a serene and cultural atmosphere.
Bali is full of wonderful temples, like Taman Ayun

Bali

Bali’s culture is also unique within Indonesia, as it’s the only island with a Hindu tradition. This has a profound influence on the island’s unique architecture, and especially in the north, it feels like there is a beautiful temple around every corner. There are still opportunities to meaningfully engage with this culture in Bali – for example, I avoided the busy Tirta Empul Temple and it’s overcrowded water ceremony for a much smaller temple nearby where I was one of the few people in the pools. You can also visit the stunning Tanah Lot temple for sunset, and marvel at the way it extends out over the ocean.

A stunning view of a Balinese sea temple perched atop a natural rock arch, surrounded by the deep blue ocean. The waves crash against the rocky shore as the temple stands silhouetted against the bright sky. Lush greenery frames the scene, adding to the serene and spiritual atmosphere.
Tanah Lot is truly unique

There are also many opportunities to see traditional dances in Bali, including in the beautiful Ubud Palace at night. While touristy, these shows give an insight into Bali’s heritage in a beautiful setting.

However, the incredible tourism that Bali has experienced means that finding authentic Balinese culture has become much rarer than in the past, particularly in the south of the island.

Java

In contrast to Bali and Sumatra, Java is predominantly Muslim, and this shows in much of the architecture. One of the key things to visit is the Royal Palace or Kraton in Yogyakarta, where the Sultan still lives with his family. These beautiful buildings are unique in Java, particularly in the presence of the Royal Guard, who still carry arsenic-tipped swords to protect the Sultan.

The Royal Palace in Yogyakarta

In addition, Java gives you the opportunity to visit Borobudur and Prambanan, two UNESCO heritage temples on the outskirts of Yogyakarta.

Prambanan Temple near Yogyakarta

The more famous Borobudur is a huge building towering up from the ground, with multiple levels representing the ascension to Nirvana. In contrast, Prambanan is a huge complex with hundreds of smaller temples, where you can clearly see architectural echoes of the Hindu influences also found in Bali. I loved both of these temples and would go back in a heartbeat – they rival Angkor Wat in Cambodia for architectural beauty and historical depth.

Finally, in Malang, you can visit the Rainbow Village, an area of the city that was slated for destruction before local students painted it in bright colours to encourage tourism. It’s now a thriving tourist destination, bringing in much-needed funds for the residents.

Malang’s Rainbow Village

✅ Sumatra offers the opportunity for authentic interactions with local communities, as it is still relatively unused to mass tourism.

🚗 Transport and Accommodation in Sumatra, Bali and Java: What to Expect

Bali

Without a doubt, Bali has the most developed tourism infrastructure. The island is awash with hotels in every budget category (although finding very cheap accommodation will be a struggle), and there are plenty of tours on offer. You’ll find a range of high-end food options as well, with the ubiquitous smoothie bowls jostling alongside some truly exceptional restaurants.

However, I did find transport on the island to be lacking – there is almost no public transport, meaning that you need a private car to get between destinations on the island, which soon adds up.

Java

As Indonesia’s most populous island, Java has by far the best transport infrastructure. Not only is the island connected by a network of buses, but you don’t even need them: there are excellent trains between most destinations. I used the train between Yogyakarta and Malang, and it was cheap, comfortable and punctual! Java also has a number of decent airports, including Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Surabaya, which are well served by budget airlines and will take you to a range of both domestic and international destinations.

There’s a good range of hotels in Java, ranging from luxury to really good budget hotels. I was able to find excellent hostels with private rooms, as well as family-run guesthouses, on my travels across the island. I recommend:

Otu Hostel in Yogyakarta
  • After a day exploring Borobudur’s sunrise views or wandering Yogyakarta’s bustling markets, there’s nothing better than cooling off in a sparkling pool with a cold drink in hand. Otu Hostel in Yogyakarta gives you all that at a budget price, with cosy private rooms, friendly staff, and a location just steps from the city’s main sights.
  • In Malang’s quieter streets, you’ll find a little oasis where travellers are greeted like old friends. Enny’s Guesthouse in Malang is a budget-friendly stay with warm, welcoming hosts who can help you plan trips to Mount Bromo or the Rainbow Village, or book your onward journey.

Sumatra

Sumatra is definitely off-the-beaten-track in Indonesia, and this shows in the infrastructure. Sumatra’s accommodation punches above it’s weight in the tourist towns – both Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba have a range of accommodation, catering to different budgets. But particularly in Bukit Lawang, you’ll struggle to find very high end luxury hotels. I recommend:

Hub Tata has a lakefront spot in Lake Toba
  • Imagine waking up to the sound of the river rushing past your room, before heading down to breakfast by the river, and sipping proper espresso coffee as the water rushes by. At the very end of Bukit Lawang’s main path, Jungle Inn in Bukit Lawang offers an extra-wide river view and its own private waterfall. The food is excellent and the staff treat you like family – one of my favourite places to stay in Asia!
  • In the calmest part of Lake Toba, mornings start with soft light spilling over the mountains and the lake surface shimmering like glass. Hub Tata in Lake Toba is a peaceful, budget-friendly base with unbeatable views and hearty breakfasts that set you up for a day exploring Batak villages or cruising the lake.

However, transport on the island is poor. I flew into Medan International Airport from Kuala Lumpur, and once you’re on the island the primary option for travel is a ‘shared taxi’. I found these to be dangerous and poorly organised, with drivers expected to work exceptionally long hours – at one point our driver fell asleep while driving, and on two occasions we had to wait for connections for over an hour. f

🔍 Java offers the best tourism infrastructure, with a great range of accommodation, and in particular excellent transport options. This is where Sumatra is let down – but hopefully these transport options will improve over the next few years.

💸 Which Island Is Cheapest? Travel Costs Compared

Bali

Bali is by far the most expensive of the three islands. Mass tourism has produced some economies of scale, but as a general rule it’s difficult to find budget hotels. The fact that you have to use taxis or private cars to transfer between cities also makes Bali extremely expensive. I also struggled to find group tours in Bali, meaning that I ended up using a private tour to see northern Bali.

Em wearing a green bikini top and an orange sarong kneels in a sacred Balinese water temple, bowing her head under a stream of water. The stone wall behind her is covered in lush green moss and ferns, with small woven offerings of flowers and leaves placed above each flowing spout. The turquoise water swirls around her as part of a traditional purification ritual.
Taking part in a water ceremony in Bali

Java

Java is an excellent budget location. The main tourism area in Yogyakarta offers a range of hotels from budget to luxury, while there are also the big brand name hotels in the centre of the city. Malang (the main location for Mount Bromo) is an extremely budget destination, as it still relatively low levels of Western tourism. Transport in Java is also good value, with trains and buses competing to make sure prices stay low.

Sumatra

Sumatra is also an excellent budget location. The off-the-beaten-track nature of the island means that accommodation prices remain low. Even costs for the shared taxi services necessary to travel around the island are relatively cheap (c.$12 between Medan and Bukit Lawang and $17 between Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba).

✅ Both Sumatra and Java offer an excellent escape from the higher prices in Bali

🧳 Which Indonesian Island Is Right for You? A Traveller’s Guide

Bali: First time visitors to Asia, honeymooners and digital nomads

  • If this is your first time travelling to Asia, Bali is a great entry point to the continent. Everything is very easy on Bali, as the island is used to tourists. Everyone speaks English, and you’ll find it easy to navigate tours, accommodation and food. It also offers just enough of a hint of the rest of Asia to help gear you up for any future adventures – traffic is awful, and there are dogs, both stray and owned, absolutely everywhere.
  • It also goes without saying that Bali is great for honeymooners. If you’re planning a luxury escape, but still want culture as a break from the beach, Bali is the place for you. You’ll find high end hotels but also have the chance to visit temples and beautiful waterfalls.
  • Finally, Bali is a digital nomad hub, and it’s set up for it. There’s an abundance of cafes offering beautiful places to work, and internet coverage is high.
A panoramic view of Bali’s famous Tegalalang Rice Terraces, featuring layered green fields, towering palm trees, and a cloudy blue sky.
Bali’s beautiful rice terraces

Java: First time visitors to Asia seeking a more cultural experience, and history buffs

  • If Bali isn’t your scene, I also think Java is a great starting point for first time visitors to Asia, with excellent infrastructure sitting side by side with incredible culture. It’s easy to navigate, while offering a more authentic and less beach-oriented option than Bali.
  • Java is also best for people interested in culture and history. The presence of two UNESCO-listed temples near Yogyakarta, as well as the beautiful Royal Palace in the city itself, is a history-lovers dream. If you’re visiting Mount Bromo, the Rainbow Village in Malang also offers a different type of cultural insight.
Stunning Prambanan Temple is a highlight in Java

Sumatra: Adventurers and more experienced travellers

  • Sumatra is definitely for the more adventurous traveller. This isn’t a good option if you’re visiting Asia for the first time, or unused to bad roads, busy traffic, and definite chaos. However, if you’re willing to endure these downsides, it offers incredible rewards, with the chance to spot rare wildlife, trek in incredible jungle, and take in the serene beauty of Lake Toba (after the slightly hair-raising journey to get there).
I loved river tubing in Sumatra

✍️ Personal Travel Notes: What It’s Really Like to Visit Sumatra

Sumatra was my first experience of Indonesia – I later visited Java, Bali, Flores, the Komodo Islands and Lombok – and it felt like a bit of a baptism of fire. From my first journey, where we stopped after about 20 minutes drive to sit in a roadside restaurant and wait an hour and a half for a different car, I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. But it was so worth it!

I absolutely loved seeing orangutans in Gunung Leuser National Park – particularly when we got to see mothers and babies hanging out in the trees. And the river tubing afterwards was much more my scene than the hike through the forest. But probably the highlight of my time in Bukit Lawang was walking through the non-touristy side of the village, and meeting local kids. They were incredibly excited to see me, and as I’d accidentally timed my visit with school lunchtime, I’ve never done so many high-5s in such a short period of time.

The village in Bukit Lawang was so pretty!

And Lake Toba – still one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen, after 10 months of travelling. To find this slice of mountainous beauty on an island renowned for it’s jungle was a wonderful surprise. The town itself was far quieter than I anticipated, and that really helped me have meaningful interactions. I still remember talking to an older man in his traditional Batak house. While it was within the tourist compound around the Stone Chairs of Silagan, it was still his home – something that would be unheard of elsewhere. Despite language barriers, we had a lovely conversation, and I’m still wearing the traditional bracelet I bought from him.

There are still many Batak houses by the shores of Lake Toba

Frequently asked questions

Which Indonesian island is best for nature and wildlife?

Sumatra is the best Indonesian island for nature and wildlife. Its home to vast jungles, endangered species like orangutans and tigers, and the stunning Lake Toba — the world’s largest volcanic lake. It’s one of only two places in the world you can see orangutans in the wild (the other is Borneo) and offers the option for ethical jungle treks.

Is Sumatra safe for tourists?

Yes, Sumatra is generally safe for tourists, especially in popular areas like Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba. However, transport infrastructure is less developed, so travellers should take extra care with local travel arrangements and use reputable operators. The British Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office also advises against all travel to a couple of small areas in Sumatra where there are active volcanoes – these aren’t near Lake Toba or Bukit Lawang, but be aware of changing advice on volcanoes when you travel.

What is the most affordable Indonesian island to visit?

Sumatra and Java are more affordable than Bali. Accommodation, food, and transport costs in Sumatra and Java are generally much lower, making them ideal for budget travellers or backpackers.

Can you see orangutans in the wild in Indonesia?

Yes, the best place to see orangutans in the wild in Indonesia is Bukit Lawang, located in northern Sumatra. Its one of only two places in the world where wild orangutans still live in their natural habitat.

Is Bali too touristy now?

Some parts of Bali, especially the south, have become heavily touristy. However, travellers can still find authentic cultural experiences and quieter areas in the north and central regions like Ubud.

What’s the best island in Indonesia for first-time visitors?

Bali is often recommended for first-time visitors due to its well-developed tourism infrastructure, wide range of accommodations, and ease of travel. Java is another great option for culture lovers, while Sumatra is better for adventurous travellers with some prior experience.

What should I pack to visit Indonesia?

These are the items that I strongly recommend packing for a trip to Indonesia – especially one where you’re getting off the beaten track:
✔ Keep your phone charged on long journeys with this lightweight portable charger.
✔ Charge all your devices anywhere with a multi-port travel adapter.
✔ Protect your valuables in hostels with these sturdy padlocks.
✔ Skip single-use plastic with a reusable water bottle.
✔ Make jungle hikes easier with lightweight trekking poles.
✔ Stay bite-free in the tropics with high-strength DEET repellent.

I truly loved Java, but it feels like a very modern island where Indonesia’s economy is booming. Most people live further from their ancestral traditions. My guide at the Royal Palace was proud to tell me the current Sultan’s five daughters have all married commoners for love.

I liked Bali more than I expected — the sheer beauty of the island and its temples is overwhelming — but it can’t match the authenticity you’ll find in Sumatra. In contrast, Sumatra offers both wild nature and deep-rooted culture, all in a relatively unspoilt paradise. It’s the perfect Indonesian island for travellers seeking an off-the-beaten-track adventure.

Ready to start planning? Scroll down for my top picks for where to stay, what to do, and how to get around.

How to book your Indonesia trip

Plan your transport with 12GoAsia — compare buses, trains, and ferries across Indonesia in one place.

Book your accommodation early — the best-rated hotels sell out fast:

Reserve tours before you go — top activities fill up quickly:

Have you visited more than one of Indonesia’s major islands? Let me know your experience in the comments!

Em is the voice behind Em’s Globetrotting Gems, where she shares real travel experiences and down-to-earth advice to help others explore the world with confidence. In 2024, she spent over 6 weeks travelling through Indonesia — including 10 days in Sumatra, 10 days in Java, and 15 days in Bali. Her blog offers honest comparisons and practical tips to help fellow travellers choose the destinations that suit their style and interests best.

✅ All photos featured on this blog are from my personal travel experiences. No stock images are used.


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4 Comments

  1. I’ve been dying to visit Indonesia and this comparison of the different places is super helpful in helping me figure out where to go. Thank you so much for sharing it!

  2. This is great! I visited only Bali, but I also wanted to visit Java and Sumatra. Your article is first of all very inspiring to travel back to Indonesia and secondly it’s a perfect guide to understand which place is the most suitable for your taste

  3. Having just returned from Java and Bali, I totally agree with your assessment! I really, really loved Java – it had a bit of everything, most of all, it was so easy to travel independently. I visited by train, starting in and returning to Jakarta, and saw magnificient temples, climbed two volcanoes, learned a lot about batik and experienced great food and a pretty amazing railway system. It is friendly, not that crowded, and I felt very safe as a solo female.

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