Imagine drifting through misty rivers surrounded by towering limestone cliffs—this is Ninh Binh, Vietnam’s best-kept secret. This Ninh Binh travel guide will show you why it deserves a spot on your itinerary. This UNESCO-listed region is a paradise of towering limestone karsts, winding rivers, and ancient temples. Though naturally stunning, Ninh Binh remained off the beaten path until recently. Whether you’re cruising through the mystical caves of Trang An, exploring ancient temples, or cycling through peaceful countryside, Ninh Binh is an essential stop on any Vietnam itinerary. But don’t wait too long—tourism is booming, and the serene charm of Ninh Binh won’t last forever!
Key takeaways
- Ninh Binh is a much more relaxing destination than bustling Hanoi, thriving Hoi An or busy Ho Chi Minh City. While many visit on day trips, staying a few days allows you to fully relax and take in the scenery.
- The most famous thing to do in Ninh Binh is a boat trip through the spectacular limestone scenery. There are two options, and I recommend the boats at Trang An.
- Take time to visit Am Tiem Lake, a stunning natural paradise that’s not on the typical one day tours.
Is Ninh Binh worth visiting
Ninh Binh is among Vietnam’s most stunning destinations—a bold claim, but well-deserved. The area, known as the Trang An Landscape Complex, is recognised as a site of natural beauty by UNESCO. Ninh Binh is known as ‘Halong Bay on land’ and is a must-do on any Vietnam itinerary.
When I visited Vietnam in 2010, Ninh Binh wasn’t on the tourist itinerary. I was told people only started visiting after the area was recognised by Unseco. However, you can now see development happening everywhere. While it still has a really chill, backpacker vibe right now, in a couple of years Ninh Binh is going to be very different. Visit now before it becomes overdeveloped!
What to do – the ultimate Ninh Binh travel guide
Take a beautiful boat ride through limestone karsts
The scenic boat rides wind through towering limestone karsts, creating a mesmerizing journey through this natural wonderland.
Without doubt the most famous and must-do experience in Ninh Binh is taking a boat ride. These offer you the opportunity to get out into the limestone hills that the area is famous for, floating gently past stunning rock formations and through epic caves.
There are two boat options, and I highly recommend going to Trang An over Tam Coc.
Boats at Trang An
Cost: 250k VND
Trang An is about a 20-minute drive from Tam Coc, with a one-way Grab ride costing around £5/$6. It feels very well set up as a tourist destination, with lots of information available.
There are three routes to choose from at Trang An, and as you are buying your ticket there is information on the differences between the three routes. There’s also a separate information stand where you can ask questions.
Once you’ve bought a ticket, you proceed into a tunnel under the road, which takes you to the boat dock area. You’ll then tell the attendant which route you want, and they’ll direct you to the right boat. If you are a group of 1 or 2, you will have to share a boat with another group. Boats take up to 4, so if you’re a group of 3 you might get your own boat unless there is a solo traveller about.
While the boats are uncovered, umbrellas are provided to shade you from the sun (and rain, if it starts). You’ll also spot that many of the rowers are dressed in jackets with inbuilt fans!
What’s the diference between the routes:
Route | What you see | Time | Why |
---|---|---|---|
Route 1 | 9 caves and 3 temples | Approx. 3-4 hours | Likely to be quieter |
Route 2 | 4 caves and 3 temples | Approx. 2-3 hours | Best if short on time |
Route 3 | 3 caves and 3 temples, including famous Dot cave which is 1km long | Approx. 3 hours | Most popular |
I chose route 3, and would highly recommend it. The journey lasted about 3 hours, which included stops at the various temples along the route. There are vendors selling drinks at each of the stops to help you keep hydrated.
The route is stunning, taking you through the longest cave system, as well as past the area used in the King Kong movie. This is really a must-do in Ninh Binh.
Boats at Tam Coc
Cost: 250k VND
Tam Coc is the main town people stay at in the region and boats depart from the centre of town. That makes this a popular option, as it’s much more convenient. The boat ride is shorter, making it a popular choice for day trips from Hanoi.
I didn’t take this boat trip, so I can’t comment on the route. However, the lake area is stunningly beautiful and you’re not going to experience mediocre landscapes in this area.
Which boat trip to choose?
Your choice will partly depend on the amount of time you have in Ninh Binh, and whether you choose to stay in Tam Coc or Trang An (more on this below). However, there are some other factors you should consider.
While Tam Coc is in the centre of the town, it’s not as well set up as Trang An. For example, there is little information offered about the area at Tam Coc, but much more available at Trang An.
Though I didn’t take the Tam Coc boat tour, I noticed many negative reviews, especially on Google. The route is shorter, and less spectacular. More importantly, I saw numerous other blogs, and even tour operators on Viator/Get your Guide referencing that the rowers will often refuse to return you to land until you’ve e.g. tipped heavily, or bought something from one of the boats on the lake selling drinks/snacks. This would obviously be an unpleasant experience, and one I chose to avoid.
In contrast, my rower at Trang An did not ask for a tip, and I understand that its actually against the rules at Trang An. We were never hassled by vendors there either.
To consider | Trang An | Tam Coc |
---|---|---|
Location | Further away from the main hotel area | Right in the centre of the action and easy to access from main hotel area |
Duration | Routes from 2 hours upwards | Shorter route, from 1.5 – 2 hours |
Highlights | Dot Cave, 1km in length, and King Kong filming locations | Landscape considered more natural and untouched |
Reviews and scams | Tipping prohibited and no scams noted via Google Reviews or travel blogs. | Both Google Reviews and travel blogs note that scams are common (e.g. expectation to buy refreshments from other boats) and tipping is expected. |
Explore history at Hoa Lu Ancient capital
Cost: 20k VND
A bit further on from Trang An, you’ll come to the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. This was the capital of the Dai Co Viet Kingdom during the 10th and 11th centuries. Although it served as the capital for only a short period before Hanoi took its place, Hoa Lu remains a key part of Vietnam’s archaeological heritage. Like other ancient sites in Asia, such as Angor Wat and Borobudur near Yogyakarta, it’s also part of the UNESCO Heritage Site.
There is so much history at Hoa Lu. Vietnam is rich with archeological history in general – for example, the beautiful ruins at My Son, near Hoi An. The temples and buildings at Hoa Lu are really beautiful – and of course, they’re surrounded by stunning landscapes.
However, my visit to Hoa Lu was not as successful as I’d hoped. I thought it would be possible to find a guide at the complex, but I couldn’t find one. As with many archeological sites, without a guide it’s difficult to really appreciate the site. I’d recommend booking a guide in advance – talk to your hotel or a tour provider in Tam Coc.
As Hoa Lu is a religious site, you’ll also need to dress appropriately. At Hoa Lu, the focus was on covering your knees rather than shoulders. If you are wearing shorts, they provide a sarong at the entrance.
Walk or cycle around the stunning An Tiem lake
Cost: 50k VND
Near Hoa Lu ancient capital is this stunning, quiet lake that’s relatively unknown by western tourists. Recommended by my host, I took a quick moto from the Ancient capital across to the entrance, although you could easily walk.
Head through the tunnel lit by lanterns and you’ll find Am Tiem Lake, which until recently was only accessible by very difficult mountain passes. It’s now a bit of a haven for local and Asian tourists, who rent bikes to cycle around the paved edge of the lake. As with many places geared towards Asian tourists, there are also numerous Instagram photo spots around the lake.
At one end of the lake you’ll find a cafe, and above a small, extremely picturesque, pagoda nestled into the side of the mountain.
At the other end of the lake is the real draw – climb the stairs to find the Dragon Cave pagoda. Like the temples at Batu and Ipoh in Malaysia, this is a temple built into a cave in the mountain, although the Dragon Cave is Buddhist rather than Hindu. While the exact history of the Dragon Cave is unclear, it has been a religious site since at least the 10th century.
Once you’ve made the climb, you’ll also find spectacular views of the lake!
If you’re keen to rent a bike to cycle around the lake, do so at the entrance as you won’t be able to around the lake.
Chill out Sister Fields Cafe
While much of Ninh Binh still feels like a traditional backpacker town, with bars focused on cheap beer and food, hidden down a small alley is the beautiful Sister Fields cafe.
This peaceful cafe, started and run by young women, is a peaceful oasis within Ninh Binh. It feels more like the kind of cafe you’d find in Hanoi or Hoi An, or even a cafe culture hotspot like Chiang Mai in Thailand. Take some time here to enjoy the brunch style food or chill out in the beautiful gardens.
Rest, relax and soak up the nature
This is a beautiful part of Vietnam to take a little time to rest and relax. You’re surrounded by beauty, and even the busier Tam Coc is fundamentally a relaxed town. Take some time to sit at a bar on the main street, or to chill out in the pool at your accommodation. Beer is incredibly cheap in Tam Coc, and many places also sell delicious Vietnamese coffee. There are also the usual multitude of spas offering massages and a range of treatments – particularly great if you get a rainy day.
Honourable mentions
It’s impossible to do everything while you’re travelling. Here are a few of the things that are highly recommended in Ninh Binh, but that I de-prioritised because they weren’t right for me.
Climb Hang Lua for a dramatic view of the UNSECO-listed landscape
Cost: 100k VND
Climbing to the top of Hang Lua at sunset is a staple of tour itineraries in Ninh Binh. This viewpoint is famous for stunning views of Tam Coc and the surrounding World Heritage landscape. However, I was too lazy to attempt the 500 steps to the top and opted to enjoy other sites instead.
If you’re more up for the 500 stairs than I was, then a trip to Hang Lua should be on your Ninh Binh itinerary. While the view at sunset is supposedly stunning, this is when the incredibly popular day tours from Hanoi turn up. Consider going at a different time when the viewpoint will be quieter. An early morning hike would also help you avoid the heat.
There are also stories of scams on the road down to the entrance, particularly around where to park your motorbike or bike. Be careful of these and read up in advance if you want to avoid them – there are many mentions in the Google Reviews for Hang Mua.
Cycle around the beautiful countryside
One of the most popular things to do in Ninh Binh is hire a bike and cycle around the local area. I saw lots of happy cyclists wheeling around the area. This would also give you the opportunity to explore some of the less-visited pagodas dotted around the countryside.
Most hotels and hostels will offer bike rental, with some offering free bikes. Just be careful cycling down the main road in Tam Coc as it’s busy with buses throughout the day.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Ninh Binh
The best times to visit Ninh Binh are spring and autumn. I visited in October 2024, and the heat during the day was still pretty intense.
- Spring – March to May: cooler, but humid with high rainfall.
- Summer – June to August: hot and humid, lots of rain.
- Autumn – September – November: Cooler, decreasing humidity and green fields.
- Winter – December – February: Cool, even cold, but dry.
How many days should you spend in Ninh Binh
Many people visit Ninh Binh on a day trip from Hanoi, and it’s possible to see the main sights in Ninh Binh on a very busy one day itinerary.
However, if your Vietnam itinerary allows, I would highly recommend spending longer in this beautiful area. Like the area around Sapa, Ninh Binh is a real antidote to the hustle and chaos of the rest of Vietnam, and a few days spent here will help recharge your batteries and reconnect you with nature.
I would suggest spending at least 2 nights in Ninh Binh, giving you one full day and at least one half day in the area. Spend your full day visiting Trang An, Am Tiem Lake and Hoa Lu, and use at least a half day in the area to cycle around. You could visit Hang Mua on either your full day or your half day, depending on your arrival/departure times.
How to get to Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is accessible by train or bus. The city of Ninh Binh is the gateway to the surrounding area of natural beauty, with the two towns of Tam Coc and Trang Ang the most popular areas to stay. Trains arrive into Ninh Binh, while buses go directly to Tam Coc.
Ninh Binh city is about 10 minutes by bike or car from Tam Coc, and about 20 minutes from Trang An.
The nearest airport is Hanoi, around 3 hours away by road or 2 hours by train.
Train to Ninh Binh
Vietnamese rail is unusual in that there are two types of train:
- Standard carriages run by Vietnamese rail as part of the Reunification Express route. These offer a variety of different seat types, including hard/soft seats and sleeper carriages. They don’t tend to be of very high quality.
- Private carriages, attached to the Vietnamese rail carriages. These offer a step up in quality, although quality differs across providers. They are usually more expensive.
The city of Ninh Binh is on the trainline from Da Nang to Hanoi.
When you arrive at the train station, you will be greeted by lots of taxi drivers. You can use their services, organise a taxi from your hotel, or use Grab. A Grab from the station to Tam Coc costs about £3/$3.70/3.5e.
Train from Da Nang and Hoi An
The sleeper train from Da Nang is overnight and takes between 15-16 hours, with times available here. This is the best way to travel from Hoi An, which has no train station but is about 40 minutes drive from Da Nang.
I took the 6pm sleeper train from Da Nang and would recommend this departure. It gives you plenty of time to settle in on the train before sleep, and the arrival time of 9am the next morning means that you don’t have to wake up too early.
From Da Nang, I used the Lotus Express private train. While not as nice as my sleeper train to Sapa, this offers a good experience. There are two types of carriage offered: 4 berth cabins, which you can book one bed in (great for solo travellers) and 2 berth cabins.
For a 2 berth cabin, you must book both berths. These are the same cabins as the 4 berth cabins, with the top bunks folded back.
The Lotus Express offered good snacks and breakfast, and had a western seated toilet and sink area.
Train from Hanoi
From Hanoi, the train takes just over 2 hours. There are 3 trains per day – one early in the morning, one in the afternoon and one in the evening. Find out more detail here. For such a short journey, you could consider booking with Vietnam rail rather than the more expensive private carriages.
Bus to Ninh Binh
There are bus routes to Ninh Binh from a variety of destinations across Vietnam, and the buses will drop you directly into Tam Coc town.
The most popular routes are from Hanoi (about 3 hours) and Halong Bay (about 4 hours). The quality of these can differ, including standard mini vans and limousine vans, so shop around to find the right balance of price versus quality for you. I used Sapa Discovery Travel for the 3 hour trip to Hanoi and the limousine van was clean, modern and comfortable.
You can also get buses from Da Nang (c.14h), Sapa (c.8h) and Hue (c.11h). There are many agencies offering sleeper buses and vans. As ever, read the reviews before choosing the bus for you, as quality can differ significantly. If you are heading to Sapa, I used HK Open Tour/HK Buslines and can recommend their modern, clean sleeper buses.
Where to stay in Ninh Binh?
Any Ninh Binh travel guide will tell you to avoid staying in Ninh Binh city – this is just the jumping off point for the region and is an industrial town not geared towards tourists.
There are two main areas that tourists stay when visiting Ninh Binh: the towns of Tam Coc and Trang An.
Tam Coc
This is the bigger, more developed town, although for now it’s still very much a backpacker town. There is one main street lined with restaurants and spas, with hotels on alleys shooting off this. The road leads down to a cluster of other restaurants around the lake.
I really enjoyed Tam Coc. It’s a small, easily walkable town with lots of food options. I could almost see it changing in front of me though – development in Vietnam is happening so quickly – so I can imagine that in a year or two it will be very different.
I would avoid staying directly on the main street in Tam Coc, as it’s noisy not just from bars but from buses passing through. Look for a hotel slightly away from the main action. There are also some lovely looking hotels a bit further out, but be aware that there is no Grab motorbike in Ninh Binh. If you stay further out, you’ll need to either rent a motorbike, cycle into the main town or take a relatively expensive Grab car.
Hotel options:
- Tam Coc Mandala hotel – about 5 minutes walk from the main road, this small budget hotel is clean, well designed and has a lovely pool. This is where I stayed and I can highly recommend it. The owner is lovely and it offers a great breakfast, all in a quiet location.
- Banana Tree Hostel – this thriving hostel is one of the few properties directly on the lake at Tam Coc. While I’m not a hostel person, if you are it’s worth considering this hostel for the pool with lake views and social vibes.
- Tam Coc Moutain Sunset and Garden Hotel – for a slightly more luxurious stay, try this highly rated hotel. It’s situated off the busy main road but not far from the centre of town, and has an indoor pool.
Trang An
Trang An is much smaller and more spread out, and less easy to navigate on foot. The main area with hotels/homestays is not by the boat lake. If you’re planning to stay in Trang An, you’ll need to rent motorbikes or bikes to get around. You could also take Grab, but this is likely to be less frequent/easy to get than in Tam Coc as the area is more spread out. The hotels below are highly rated and a bit more in the main village of Trang An:
- Green Mountain Homestay – strong reviews across both Google and Booking.com, with a pool and restaurant
- Trang An Mountain House – slightly more expensive, this also has excellent reviews with a pool and restaurant. This one is a bit more central in Trang An village
Ninh Binh is one of those places that lingers in your memory long after you leave. The dramatic karsts, hidden temples, and tranquil waterways create a landscape unlike anywhere else in Vietnam. Whether you choose to explore by boat, bike, or foot, every corner of Ninh Binh offers something magical. And beyond its natural beauty, the region provides a much-needed respite from the chaos of Vietnam’s big cities. If you’re looking for an adventure that blends history, nature, and relaxation, Ninh Binh should be at the top of your list. But go soon—before the secret gets out!
Ninh Binh is probably my favorite place to visit in Vietnam and this Ninh binh travel guide would have been super useful before my trip! I am aslso super lazy but I highly recommend you try to climb Mua cave (Hang Mua) next time you visit. It is absolutely worth it!
I missed this off my itinerary as I ran out of time; however, I am planning a trip back to Vietnam and will definitely visit Ninh Binh. It looks so beautiful and thanks for the table of what each boat ride consists of – very helpful.
You definitely should make it part of your next visit! It’s such a beautiful and peaceful area!