EmIf you’re looking for an adventure off the beaten track in Indonesia, Sumatra is the perfect destination. While Bali and Java attract millions of tourists, Sumatra remains a hidden gem, offering lush jungles, stunning crater lakes, and unforgettable wildlife encounters. Whether you’re trekking through Gunung Leuser National Park in search of orangutans, exploring the serene beauty of Lake Toba, or immersing yourself in the island’s rich culture, Sumatra promises an experience far from the usual tourist trail. In this guide, I’ll share the best places to visit in Sumatra, practical tips for getting around, and everything you need to know to plan your trip.
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Key takeaways
- Head to Bukit Lawang, a famous jungle paradise where you can trek to find orangutans
- Lake Toba is the world’s highest crater lake and a beautiful slice of blue reminiscent of the alps
- You will most likely enter Sumatra near Medan, but it’s not a great city. Try to avoid spending time there other than before/after your flights
Off the beaten track in Indonesia – is Sumatra worth visiting?
Sumatra is definitely one of the less popular major islands in Indonesia – it doesn’t get the same attention as Bali, the Komodo Islands, Mount Bromo in Java or Lombok. But that’s one of the things that makes it a great place to visit!
While both Lake Toba and Bukit Lawang are tourist destinations, they have nothing like the crowds of Bali. It’s also easy in both to see that locals are still living relatively normal lives even in these more touristy areas. A short walk in Bukit Lawang takes you out of the tourist area into the village, where kids come running up for high fives and their mums are doing laundry in the river. As you drive across the island, you’ll drive through areas that never see tourists, and in Lake Toba, there are many local Batak people still living in the traditional longhouses.
Sumatra was my first experience of Indonesia, and I’ve since visited Java, Bali, Gili Air, Flores and Komodo, and Lombok. Sumatra still feels like the most off the beaten track part of the islands – the place where you are most likely to see what life was like before mass tourism.
And there are orangutans! Sumatra is one of only two places in the world you can see orangutans in the wild – the other is Borneo.
It can be very hard to find out how to visit Sumatra. Luckily, I just visited (August 2024), and this blog will set out everything you need to know.
The best places to visit in Sumatra
See orangutans in Bukit Lawang
Most people go to Bukit Lawang to trek in Gunung Leuser National Park, where there are both wild and semi wild orangutans:
- Semi wild orangutans were once owned as pets, before being rehabilitated when Indonesia made this illegal. They are therefore more likely to be towards the edge of the national park, and to come nearer to humans.
- Wild orangutans are more likely to keep their distance, staying high in the trees.
Most people choose an overnight trek, staying in the jungle. I chose not to do this and went for a three hour trek with tubing at the end – I got really lucky and still saw six orangutans. I also saw Thomas Leaf Monkeys, which can only be seen in Sumatra. Like the Dusky Leaf Monkeys found on Penang Hill in Malaysia, they’re a peaceful, shy small monkey entirely unlike the naughty macaques found in Bali and at Kuala Lumpur’s Batu Caves.
I highly recommend the trekking company I used, Sumatra Orangutan Explore:
- Focus on sustainable tourism
- Unlike many other guides, they do not call out to the orangutans when in the jungle
- My guide worked really hard to make sure I got the best photos, and to find the best spots to see the monkeys.
- Filtered water on their overnight camp as well as boiled water. I heard stories of other travellers getting sick from the boiled water in camp.
Alternative trekking options: almost all guest houses will offer their own tour. Be aware that the first guest house I booked cancelled my booking because I was not doing the trek with them.
Other things to do in Bukit Lawang
Besides trekking, I found Bukit Lawang a beautiful place to chill out for a couple of days. The weather is warm but not too hot, and the temperature cools at night.
- Like the 4000 Islands in Laos, Bukit Lawang is a beautiful place to sit on the river and chill, and there are some spots to swim as well.
- Other activities include organised village tours.
- I loved walking around the village on my own – kids were super excited to see me and I have never given so many high fives in such a short time!
- Get a massage: my hotel organised an in-room massage, but there’s a spot on the river just before Jungle Inn where you can get massages right on the riverbank.
- Chill at NatureSoul Cafe – a lovely cafe with comfortable chairs on the river. I spent afternoons here working.
Unique Experience in Bukit Lawang
I spent a fantastic morning with @Aini’s_pure_eco_soap making soaps, booked via Sumatra Orangutan Explore. I joined Aini’s sister Sarah at their house surrounded by rice fields, out in the middle of nature. We followed the soap making process from start to finish, including boiling the raw ingredients, adding different essential oils and adding them to the moulds.
Aini and Sarah have a beautiful herb garden where we picked ingredients for the soap. We also picked our own Butterfly Pea flowers to make Butterfly Pea tea while we waited for the soaps to set.
While Sarah had excellent English, we were also joined by her friend who wanted to improve her English. This made it feel like more of a two-way exchange, rather than me just learning about soap. After the workshop. Sarah showed me the school she runs for children in the village, helping them to learn English!
This was such a special experience, and I learned so much about life in Bukit Lawang.
Visit the off-the-beaten track beauty of Lake Toba
Samosir Island on Lake Toba is a truly dreamy location. The water glistens blue and the hills are bright green, like being in the Alps. Most hotels have lake front/lake view rooms and there are a plethora of lake view restaurants to choose from. Most hotels are located in TukTuk, the tourist town on Samosir Island.
What to do on Lake Toba
Lake Toba and Samosir Island are home to the Batak people, who have their own language and culture. The island is dotted with traditional houses – some of which are hotels or tourist destinations, but many are still family homes. One of the main things to do on Samosir Island is to explore this culture.
This area on Sumatra is also interesting because unlike Java, which is predominantly Muslim, or Bali, which is largely Hindu, the area around Lake Toba is primarily Christian. This is due to the arrival of a German missionary in the 19th century, but Christianity on the island is seen in parallel with the traditional beliefs of the Batak people.
I took a becak tour from my hostel – the local tuktuks. This was a lovely way to travel around the island, but you can also rent motorbikes, or hire a driver for the day (either motorbike or car). Key stops include:
- Tomok market – a great place to buy souvenirs made by local people
- The Stone Chairs of Siallagan – near Tomok village, this open air museum has preserved several traditional Batik houses, some of which are still used as family dwellings. It also contains the Stone Chairs of Siallagan, where the Batak King used to hold meetings.
- Huta Bolon in Simanindo – another great spot to learn about Batak culture. This museum also offers traditional houses.
Where to eat at Lake Toba?
There are a number of great places to eat in Tuktuk:
- Hub Tata – has a cafe area with an astonishingly good view. Only open until 7pm, it offers excellent breakfasts, sandwiches and rice bowls.
- Jenny’s – a bit of an institution on the island, and for a reason. Their Mie Goreng was the best I’ve had since I’ve been in Indonesia.
Frequently asked questions
How to get to Sumatra
In the vast majority of cases, you will arrive in Sumatra via Kuala Namu Airport in the main city of Medan:
– Kuala Namu is a 40 minute flight from Kuala Lumpur or 2h20 minutes from Jakarta.
– Flights also available from Singapore, Yogyakarta and Penang, as well as Surabaya, which is the nearest airport to Mount Bromo and Malang
– Modern airport with good facilities, including a range of ATMs in the arrival area.
– Modern airport hotel (the Anara Sky) where you can stay if you have an early flight.
There are also a range of hotel options in nearby Medan, but be aware that traffic can be bad.
There is a shared taxi that will pick you up at Kuala Namu airport to take you to Bukit Lawang or Lake Toba (and vice versa).
How to get around Sumatra: public bus
Little information on public buses available online.
Usually small mini-bus size buses, with limited comfort and no aircon.
Given the state of the roads in much of Sumatra, I would avoid them unless you are dedicated to budget travelling.
How to get around Sumatra: tourist taxi
To get around Sumatra, I used the shared ‘tourist taxis’:
Shared cars, taking up to 5 or 6 people
Economical option (compared to the alternative of a private car)
Not always direct. For two of my journeys, we had to swap cars/drivers, which meant sitting at the side of the road for an hour waiting for a connection. This can significantly extend your journey time.
Not bookable online. My experience was that most hotels can book the shared taxi for you. They do not need to be booked far in advance.
How to get around Sumatra: private car
Same company and drivers as the shared taxi, but significantly more expensive.
More comfort as the car is less crowded
Direct to your destination.
You can stop when you want to take photos/use the bathroom etc.
Not bookable online
Travel safety tips for Sumatra: Air travel
While a variety of Indonesian airlines do fly into Medan, I would avoid the majority based on their safety rating (different to customer service rating). I used AirAsia; the best Indonesian alternatives are Gardua (the national carrier) and CitiLink, its budget arm. Safety ratings suggest avoiding LionAir, Batik, and other local carriers – this is true across Indonesia, not just for flying into Sumatra.
Travel safety tips for Sumatra: Road travel
Roads are very bad in Sumatra and you will be jostled about a lot. The driving is the worst I have experienced in eight months of travelling, exacerbated by drivers for both shared and private taxis being expected to undertake multiple journeys each day. Both I and other travellers I talked to experienced extremely tired drivers almost asleep at the wheel. Be aware of this and keep an eye on your driver. If you are considering a private car, it could be worth asking your hotel if this will be their own driver or a driver from the same company as the shared taxis. I suspect that any hotel offering their own driver would be safer as the driver would be less likely to do multiple trips in a day.
How to get to Bukit Lawang
Bukit Lawang is about 4 hours by car from Medan/Kuala Namu airport, and about 8 hours from Lake Toba. When you arrive in town, you will likely be a long walk from your hotel -around half an hour from the taxi drop off to my hotel.
Your hotel may offer to pick you up by motorbike, or to provide a porter. If not, there are porters meeting the car to assist with your luggage.
How to get to Lake Toba
Lake Toba is one of those places that feels really off the beaten track in Indonesia. The only way to get to there is by car. Your car will arrive in a town called Parapat, on the shores of the lake. You’ll then board a ferry to cross the lake, which takes up to an hour depending on your stop. The ferry runs every hour from 8.30am to 7.30pm, but I wouldn’t recommend aiming for the last ferry, just in case.
If you’re lucky, the ferry will drop you directly at the landing point for your hotel. If you’re unlucky, you might have to walk to your accommodation – there is no public transport on the island and the ferry was not met by any tuk tuks/bataks.
This seemed to be less to do with the ferry route and more to do with whether the Captain wants to go out of his way – my hotel assured me I’d be dropped at their jetty but the Captain refused. However, I was picked up from the hotel on the way back!
Where to stay in Bukit Lawang
Bukit Lawang is a true jungle paradise. The town stretches along a river, lined by jungle on the other side. There are a lot of hotels/guest houses along the road, most of which also have restaurants. There are also a few cafes and tour agencies.
Jungle Inn – I stayed at Jungle Inn and cannot recommend it highly enough. I also ate most of my meals there. It’s at the very end of the road, on a bend in the river, giving it more extensive views than most places. They also have their own private waterfall! The rooms are very big and clean, and the restaurant is also really good. However, it was the staff who really made it – they are the friendliest people I’ve met on all my travels. Even if you don’t stay here, it’s worth the walk to eat here.
Where to stay on Lake Toba
Tabo Cottages – while I didn’t stay here, I did visit and it looked stunning. There is an extensive garden and pool, with a busy restaurant. The boat will also drop you off here directly.
Huba Tata Guest House – I stayed at Hub Tata, which offers basic but comfortable rooms with an excellent view. It’s a bit out of the main area, which can be a good or a bad thing, depending on whether you like quiet or prefer to be in the centre of the action. The only thing to note is that the steps down to the rooms are very steep – this isn’t the place for you if you have mobility issues.
Sumatra is an adventure like no other—wild, breathtaking, and refreshingly untouristy. From the dense rainforests of Bukit Lawang to the tranquil waters of Lake Toba, this island offers some of the best places to visit in Sumatra for those seeking something beyond the usual tourist hotspots. While traveling here comes with challenges, the rewards far outweigh them. If you’re ready to go off the beaten track in Indonesia and experience a side of the country few travelers see, Sumatra is waiting for you. So, will you take the plunge? Let me know your thoughts!
This looks like such a beautiful place to visit! I love lesser visited spots, especially when they involve amazing wildlife. I’d love to see orangutans in the wild.
They get so close, though the ones I saw were only ‘semi wild’. To be honest, they were close enough! When I saw them in Borneo, there was a moment where a mama was in the bear sanctuary with her baba and it caused quite a lot of alarm – they are still wild animals and not to be messed with!
This looks so amazing. We spent quite a while in Bali last year but didn’t make it to Sumatra so it’s definitely on the list for next time 🙂
Oh, its a completely different vibe to Bali – definitely worth a visit!