EmPlanning a trip to Cambodia and wondering if it’s worth spending 2 days in Battambang? You’re not alone. This riverside city is often overshadowed by the temple-hopping spectacle of Siem Reap, leaving many travelers unsure of what Battambang actually offers—and whether it’s worth the journey. I had the same questions before visiting in November 2024, but after spending two slow, soul-refreshing days there, I can confidently say: yes, it’s absolutely worth it.
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Is Battambang worth visiting?
Yes, Battambang is a rising tourist destination, and it was great to see it while it’s still relatively quiet and under the radar. It’s also a city where Cambodia slows down. It’s where you trade the crowds of Angkor Wat for something quieter and more personal. During my stay, I rode the quirky bamboo train, caught sunset as thousands of bats streamed into the dusk, and fell into a rhythm that felt like a gentle exhale after weeks on the Southeast Asia circuit.
If you’re craving a side of Cambodia that’s less polished but deeply rewarding—a chance to connect with the countryside, the culture, and yourself—this guide to 2 days in Battambang will help you make the most of your time. Let’s dive in.
History of Battambang
Battambang is Cambodia’s third-largest city, although this quiet town doesn’t feel busy at all. It has a rich history dating back to the 11th century, when it was part of the powerful Khmer Empire. Its name means “lost stick,” tied to a local legend of a magical black staff.
From the 18th to early 20th century, Battambang was ruled by Siam (Thailand), before being returned to Cambodia under French colonial rule in 1907. The city flourished under French administration, gaining its signature colonial architecture.
Though deeply affected by the Khmer Rouge regime, today Battambang is a cultural hub known for its art scene, historic temples, and peaceful riverside charm.
If you’re interested in learning more about Cambodian history, there is a novel about Cambodia on my list of top books to read about Southeast Asia, covering both the impact of the Khmer Rouge and the Angkor period.
How to Plan the Perfect 2 Days in Battambang: Day 1
Stop 1: Have a delicious, healthy lunch at The Fringe
You’ll most likely arrive into Battambang at around midday, having transferred from Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. As a first stop, start exploring Battambang’s thriving cafe scene. Try lunch at The Fringe, where you can get delicious, healthy food in peaceful, plant-filled outdoor area.
For your first afternoon, I recommend taking an organised tour to take you between the different sites. This will help with transport, as they are quite far apart, and it’s not likely to be cheaper to organise private transport. Most tours are by tuk tuk, so you get to enjoy a typical Cambodian vehicle as you go! Most hotels will offer the option to book a tour, or Pomme Hostel runs good ones.
Stop 2: Ride the thrilling Bamboo Train
Cost: $5
The Bamboo Train is definitely the most exciting thing to do in Battambang! You’ll sit on a wooden platform and speed through the green countryside on a one-way track. You have to hope no one is coming the other way – or else you have to get off while the bamboo platform is disassembled to let the others pass!
The iconic railway was created by the locals during the Khmer Rouge, which stopped all trains. This unique experience now sustains families in this part of the country.
Most tours to the Bamboo Train will also take you to the famous suspension bridge near the city, where you can take your life in your hands as you walk across the bouncy bridge while dodging motorbikes!
Tip: Bring a cover up, as the ride lasts about 40 minutes in blazing sunshine, with no shade. There is a little market at the turnaround point to buy a much-needed cold drink.
Stop 3: See millions of bats fly at sunset
Your next stop will be Phnom Sampov Mountain to see the spectacular sight of millions of bats enjoying sunset.
Before the bats, you’ll climb the mountain to visit the Killing Cave. Like many sites across Cambodia, including Choueng Ek in Phnom Penh, this cave was used by the Khmer Rouge to kill and dispose of bodies during the Cambodian genocide. Today, it is a moving memorial, and you may even see families visiting to mourn their loved ones.
As the sun sets, make your way back down the mountain and find a spot to settle in with a cold beer. Once the sun goes down, over 6 million bats pour from a hole in the rock, making their way to find food! This incredible sight is well worth the wait.
Tips:
- Use your weather app to find out the right time for sunset
- Hire a jeep to climb the mountain, as it’s a long way and very steep
Stop 4: Support young Cambodians at Phare Circus
Cost: $16
Phare Circus is a must-do experience in Battambang. Established in 1994, the Phare Circus NGO provides local young people with the opportunity to learn circus and performance skills to make a future career. It also provides regular schooling, and even a kindergarten for little ones. This part of Cambodia still experiences extreme poverty, and the circus provides a lifeline to families with limited employment opportunities, as successful young people turn professional and move to the Phare show in Siem Reap.
Every night, young people tell a traditional Cambodian story through circus skills, including trapeze artists, fire juggling and balancing acts. These young people are still training, and when I visited, their little brothers and sisters were in the audience to watch. This made the whole experience incredibly wholesome, highlighting the importance of this NGO for the local community.
Tip: You can book tickets via their website, or at most hotels in the city.
How to Plan the Perfect 2 Days in Battambang: Day 2
Stop 1: Delicious coffee and breakfast
While Cambodia doesn’t have the coffee culture of Chiang Mai or Hanoi, Da Nang or Hue in Vietnam, Battambang is definitely one of the places you can find really excellent coffee. Start your day with an excellent coffee at Kinyei Cafe, tucked away down a quiet side street. This beautiful space has a gloriously flowery balcony and great baristas!
Stop 2: Wat Samrong Knong
Visit Wat Samrong Knong, a 300-year-old Buddhist temple that was converted into housing for soldiers and a detention centre for prisoners in the 1970s. The Khmer Rouge did not believe in religion or education, and so often these sites were converted into prisons or killing fields. Cambodia has made a massive effort to recognise the impact of their past, and so sites like Wat Samrong Knong are set up to provide explanations. Wat Samrong Knong can be visited through a tour or by hiring a tuk tuk.
Stop 3: Support local children by visiting the Human Gallery
Cost: $2
On one of Battambang’s main streets, the Human Gallery features stunning portrait photos of people from across Cambodia and the world. It’s run by an ex-Unicef photographer, who makes sure to spend time with the people he works with – sometimes weeks – ensuring that he gets to know them and truly represent them in his photos.
The gallery supports another excellent NGO, which works with children at risk of physical and sexual exploitation in Battambang and the surrounding area. Children are given extra schooling to reduce the opportunity for harm, and improve their future prospects.
If you’re lucky, the gallery owner might even offer you some of his homemade Scorpion wine – I saw similar wines near Luang Prabang, but this was my first opportunity to try one!
Tip: The Human Gallery closes over lunch. Make sure you check the opening times and plan your visit accordingly.
Stop 4: Visit Battambang’s bustling central market
Battambang’s Central Market is a relic of the city’s colonial past. Built in the 1930s by the French, it has a distinct art deco style found in other markets in French Indo-China, including the famous Ben Thanh Market in Ho Chi Minh City.
It’s still the beating heart of Battambang, and busy every day. Take time to wander the aisles and check out the fresh offerings as well as the souvenirs.
Stop 5: Relax at Lemongrass Garden Spa and Massage
After a difficult morning understanding Cambodia’s devastating recent history, it’s time for a change of pace. Lemongrass Garden Spa is one of the best value spas I’ve experienced in 10 months of travelling in Asia, punching well above its weight in terms of price vs quality. It’s a beautiful space that also has a branch in Siem Reap – at a much higher price point.
I recommend the Cambodian-style massage, which is similar to Thai massage. You’ll get stretched out and have any aches and pains relieved, all in a serene setting.
Stop 6: Continue relaxing!
Battambang has a range of delicious restaurants and bars offering tasty treats. Have dinner at Pomme Hostel, a backpacker spot doing basic really well. Run by a British-Khmer couple, they have a range of British and Thai specialities, including delicious sausage and mash. They also run regular events like their popular weekly pub quiz.
After, head for a cocktail at Miss Wong, a Japanese-themed cocktail bar offering high-end cocktails. It oozes with atmosphere, and the cocktails really pack a punch!
Frequently asked questions
Is the bamboo train in Battambang still running?
Yes, the bamboo train is still operating, though the route has changed in recent years. It now serves primarily as a tourist attraction rather than a local transport method.
Where is Battambang?
Battambang is a city in the north of Cambodia, around 3.5 hours away from Siem Reap and 4.5 hours north of Phnom Penh. It’s near the famous Tonle Sap Lake.
Is Battambang Safe?
The biggest risk to tourists in Cambodia, as in much of Southeast Asia, is bag snatching and theft. The British Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO) warns that this is prevalent in tourist hotspots, but this is significantly less likely in Battambang than in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Always keep your bag close, especially in tuk-tuks or when walking—hold it on the side away from the road to prevent snatching.
I personally never felt unsafe while in Battambang, but you should follow the usual precautions: use registered tuktuks (e.g. Grab), be aware when walking at night and keep your belongings with you.
How long do you need in Battambang?
I recommend spending around two days in Battambang. While it’s a lovely city, it’s still a developing tourist destination and there isn’t enough to do to justify spending longer if you have a busy itinerary.
What is the best time to visit Battambang?
The best time to visit Battambang is during the dry season from November to March, when temperatures are cooler and there’s little rainfall. November is especially pleasant and ideal for outdoor activitie
How to get around in Battambang
The best way to get around in Battambang is by tuk tuk. You can either join an organised tour (Pomme Hostel runs good ones) or hire your own tuk tuk driver for the day depending on your budget and timings.
If you’re able to drive a scooter, you can also rent motorbikes, but be aware that many roads nearby are in bad condition.
Do you need a guide in Battambang?
While not essential, hiring a local tuk tuk guide or joining a tour can greatly enhance your visit. Many sites are spread out, and guides can provide cultural context and handle logistics efficiently.
How to get from Siem Reap to Battambang
Heading to Angkor Wat? Battambang is an easy journey from Siem Reap. It takes about 3.5 hours to get from Siem Reap to Battamabang by bus.
Tip: When taking the bus in Cambodia, pay attention to the vehicle type. For example, the longer the journey, the less comfortable you’ll be in a minivan. Try to match your desired comfort level to your budget!
How to get from Phnom Penh to Battambang
It’s also easy to get from Phnom Penh to Battambang, with the journey taking about 4.5 hours. For this journey, you can take advantage of Vireak Buntham’s new airbus, which offers an experience like business class. They even brought me fresh coffee!
If the timings don’t work for the airbus, or you need a more budget option, both Giant Ibis and Vireak Buntham offer alternative departures in different vehicles.
What bus company should I use to get to Battambang
After reading reviews and taking tips from other travellers, these are the bus companies I used while in Cambodia:
Vireak Buntham – the biggest provider of buses in Cambodia, with extensive routes and times. Vireak Buntham offer different vehicles – check the vehicle type before you book tickets. I used their minivan, which was very comfortable, and a less comfortable mid-sized bus called a Coaster.
Vireak Buntham VET Airbus – I also used Virek Buntham’s new airbus to go from Phnom Penh to Battambang. This new service is modeled after Vietnam’s famous VIP buses. The bus was serious luxury – like travelling business class. The hostess even brought me a coffee! If you want to travel on these, book in advance – they sell out quickly.
Giant Ibis – a smaller company which offers certain routes, including luxury VIP buses on longer journeys. Giant Ibis make a point of saying on their website that they always have two drivers on board, and encourage drivers to drive slowly to promote safety. I’ve also seen videos of them breathalysing drivers before departure, though I’ve never seen this in person.
Where to stay in Battambang
As a developing tourist location, there aren’t as many hotel options in Battambang as there are in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. I stayed at Pomme Hostel, a unique stay offering small individual pods at hostel prices – but they are very small and basic.
If you prefer a more traditional hotel room, you could try: Mothers House, which has excellent reviews and a great location La Villa, a beautiful high-end option just across the river from the main tourist area, but still in easy walking distance
Battambang might not shout for your attention the way Cambodia’s bigger names do, but that’s exactly its charm. With just two days, you can slow down, soak in the scenery, and experience a side of the country that’s often missed. Whether it’s the hum of the bamboo train or the magic of sunset bats, Battambang offers quiet moments that linger long after you’ve left.
